In the single-breasted styles, the fastening was higher and the collar and lapels were small, or there might be no collar. A deep opening appeared again in the 1870s, mainly in double-breasted styles. Waistcoats buttoning high, with or without a collar but without lapels, were worn in the 1860s. The neck opening at the beginning of the period often had the collar continuous with the lapel, the opening being wide and deep during the 1850s, the fastening rose a little higher and there were a larger proportion of waistcoats with a separate collar and lapel, the lapels often being wider and shorter but the earlier form remained in fashion, particularly for evening wear. Crescent-shaped pockets on waistcoats are usually a sign of an 1830s or 1840s date. There were usually two pockets, sometimes three, until 1870 then three were usual and four occasional. For day wear, both types were worn to the end of the century. The single-breasted form was more usual for evening wear throughout the period until the last years of the century, and particularly before 1870. For day wear, double-breasted forms increased in popularity during the 1850s and 1860s. In the 1840s, the single-breasted form was general, although the double-breasted form appeared, particularly in plainer examples for daytime wear. Although examples of dress waistcoats in figured velvets and similar materials survive from all periods up to the last years of the century, there was, after 1860, much less use of silk, particularly for daytime wear, and even when waistcoats did not match the cloth of coat and trousers, they were often in a woollen fabric with pattern limited to a fancy weave in a single colour.ġ875 gold brocade waistcoat in the Paradise, 1874
In the 1850s, there was an increasing fashion for tartan patterning in silk and velvet and the colors grew brighter in daytime wea. At the beginning of the period, the liking for bright patterns on a dark background which appeared in women’s aprons, bags and shawls, appeared also in waistcoats, with cross-stitch patterns in brightly colored silks on a black or dark satin ground. Fine white or black twilled wool was also used and embroidered. Plain silks and satins were embroidered, usually in a bordering pattern and on the pockets. In the 1840s, the dress waistcoats of day wear and informal evening wear were in figured silks and satins very like the fabrics of women’s dress at the time. 1894 white eve vest or fancy design shawl collar vest
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